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- Audemars Piguet Releases 20 Brand New Watches And A Spectacular QC Collaboration With John Mayer; Christopher Ward's New C65 Is A Beauty; New From Orient Star; And Introducing The VPC Brand
Audemars Piguet Releases 20 Brand New Watches And A Spectacular QC Collaboration With John Mayer; Christopher Ward's New C65 Is A Beauty; New From Orient Star; And Introducing The VPC Brand
While AP continues to make one and a half watches, a watch writer turns watch maker
It's About Time
March 08, 2024
Hey friends, welcome back to It’s About Time. It was supposed to be a relaxed Friday with a couple of great watches. Then AP decided to release pretty much every single watch they wanted to release this year, making me rewrite the entire newsletter. It’s a crazy lineup of extremely expensive watches, but I think there’s one for everyone in there.
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In this issue:
A New Gold Chronograph, Three Tourbillons, Seven Code 11.59 Are Among Audemars Piguet's 20 New Watches Of 2024
AP Teams Up With John Mayer For A Limited Edition Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar With Stunning Dial
Christopher Ward Gives The C65 Dune A Wavy Grey Dial In Collaboration With Oracle Time
Orient Star’s Latest Limited Edition Is The Earthy M45 F7 Mechanical Moon Phase
The Type 37HW Is The First Watch From VPC, A Watch Brand We Saw Come To Life Step-By-Step
Today’s reading time: 12 minutes and 29 seconds
👂What’s new
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A while ago, I decided to use a simple picture format for these newsletter posts - give the readers one good photo of a watch and then direct them to the brand website where they can see more. It’s simple and elegant, perfect for reading in your email app of choice. But I knew a day like this was coming. A day in which a brand, one like Audemars Piguet, would up and decide to release 20 watches in one day, and I would be in a world of hurt. Seeing as how AP is not taking in Watches and Wonders in a month in Geneva, they gathered a bunch of journalist in their newly opened AP House in Milan and showed off 20 brand new watches for the first half of 2024. There’s a lot to get through, so I’ll try and keep it as brief as possible.
Most impressive from all the releases have been AP’s handling of new materials and upgrades to already high-end materials. Arguably the most impressive and most secretive of the bunch, which was photographed by only a handful of journalists, was the AP Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph Tourbillon in a camouflage ceramic case. They use a new Spark Plasma Sintering (SPS) technology process in which they place different colored ceramic powders in a circular graphite mould, bake it with electricity and under pressure, to create a unique pattern for every watch allowing endless potential custom unique pieces and patterns.
But other than the ceramic, it was all about various instances of gold. First up is the introduction of something they call Sand Gold and use on the AP Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked 41mm Sand Gold. It’s a new gold alloy that’s quite unlike any other gold alloy on the market, with high levels of copper and palladium, making it look like a blend of white and pink gold. Inside is the Calibre 2972, which was first released in 2022, beating at 21,600vph with 65 hours of power reserve, and even the openworked structure is made out of sand gold-plated brass and features a sand gold-toned rehaut. The watch comes on an 18k Sand Gold bracelet and the price is pretty mind-bending: $250,000.
Continuing the yellow(ish) gold releases, we have the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm in Yellow Gold and the Royal Oak Selfwinding 37mm in Yellow Frosted Gold. The Frosted Gold is not new for AP, as they have used it before, albeit more on limited editions. It’s has an incredible hand hammered texture to it, and this 37mm model gets a really nice gold sunburst dial. Price is $66,300. The 41mm Chronograph loses the Frosted Gold finish and instead has just a regular 18k yellow gold case, with the same gold sunburst dial. Price is $75,900.
Skipping over to white gold, we have the Royal Oak White Gold Selfwinding Tourbillon Extra-Thin (RD#3) In 37mm. This is part of AP’s RD line which is an envelope pushing effort. And it looks the part. It comes in a fully white gold case that measures 37mm wide and 8.1mm thick. The case has a bezel set with 32 baguette-cut diamonds which work brilliantly with the smoked blue Petite Tapisserie dial, 12 baguette-cut diamond hour markers and an opening for the tourbillon at 6 o’clock. Price is as wild as the look: $240,000.
Speaking of tourbillons, there are two new additions, the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon in steel and the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon in pink gold, both measuring in at 41mm. The pink gold model has a sandblasted grey dial, while the stainless steel gets a red fume dial. Both measure in at 8.1mm thick, have 50 meters of water resistance, white gold applied hour markers, white gold Royal Oak hands and come on metal-matching bracelets. Price is CHF 146,700 for the steel and CHF 180,600 for pink gold.
Before we get to the more regular stuff, there’s one more special watch - the white gold Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked, an addition to the exact same rose gold version. It has an anthracite openworked movement, applied white gold hour markers, white gold Royal Oak hands. Price: $124,100
A pair of blingy Royal Oak 37 mm models have also joined the range, both of which feature pave-diamond bezels and case ends paired with alligator leather straps. One is white gold with diamonds paired with a green dial and strap, while the other is yellow gold with diamond-pave case ends, a graded sapphire-paved bezel and a light blue dial / strap combination.
And rounding off the Royal Oak announcements are two automatic 34 mm Royal Oaks. The first is a rose gold model with a new pink dial; and the second is a very retro-inspired two-tone steel and rose gold model with a grey dial.
Moving on from the Royal Oak, but not far, we get a new Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding 43mm with Rubber Bezel. It comes in a chunky case, as the AP Offshore models are intended to be the super-sporty version of the RO, that measures 43mm wide and 14.4mm thick. The case is made out of stainless steel, but the blue bezel on top is made out of hard rubber. I like this, despite never really liking the Offshore models. It has a smoked blue dial with the Méga Tapisserie pattern, rhodium-toned gold applied hour-markers and a blue inner bezel. Price: $27,800.
And last, we get to the new Code 11.59 watches. Audemars Piguet has taken a lot of flack for being the “Royal Oak” company that has built their entire catalogue on one watch shape. So a couple of years ago they introduced a new model line, the Code 11.59. It was instantly buried under a mountain of criticism that stemmed from the fact that it wasn’t a particularly attractive watch, at least not matching AP’s grand announcements. But AP got their bearings right and the Code 11.59 is now an interesting and thriving line, with potential to bring in customers who aren’t fans of the Royal Oak.
And now in Milan, five years after its introduction, AP introduced seven new variants of the Code 11.59. Audemars Piguet announced that they will no longer offer white gold chronographs and time-only pieces in the Code 11.59, with a potential to see the material in complications. The seven updates are basically just new dials for the 38mm and 41mm self-winding pieces and the 41mm chronographs. All of them come in pink gold, with stamped dials. The 38mm versions the "Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50" color from the Royal Oak, along with a baby blue version. The 41mm three-hand now come in that same dark blue and green. And the chronographs have blue, green, or black dial options. Price is set at $33,200 for the time-only pieces and $48,200 for the chronograph.
That was a bunch of watches. I suspect that not all will be to everybody’s taste, but I’m really starting to admire AP’s ability to make the same watch look so different with tweaks to materials and colors. I also know the majority of the market is priced out of AP pieces, but some of these prices really seem intense. You can see all the new releases on Audemars Piguet’s website.
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The keen-eyed among you might have noticed that the previous article only listed 19 new AP watches. Well, there’s a reason for that, and you’re looking at it. Audemars Piguet has teamed up with musician and watch collector John Mayer to release the limited edition Royal Oak John Mayer Perpetual Calendar. Two reasons why I did this as a separate post. First, it’s absolutely stunning and uses a brand new dial that needed a bit more room to discuss. Second is to discuss the bizarre nature of collaborative watches with musicians that cost in excess of $150,000.
At its very core, this is a very familiar Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar. It comes in the same 18k white gold case that measures 41mm wide and just 9.5mm thick (I mean really… a sub-10mm QP is just cool). Water resistance is not great at 20 meters, but there is a display caseback that will allow you to see the Caliber 5134. And you might want to look at it from time to time, as this is the last time AP will use the Calibre 5134, the brand's extra-thin perpetual calendar movement that was introduced in 2015, based on the legendary 2120 architecture Audemars Piguet first delivered in 1967 in collaboration with Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, and Patek Philippe. It might be a good thing they are retiring the movement, as it only has a 40 hour power reserve, which is dangerously low for a perpetual calendar.
While the case is the same, it’s all about the incredible dial. Taking inspiration from the textured Tuscan dials that AP has used so incredibly well in the past, the blue dial gets a much sharper finish than the Tuscan dials created by electroforming a stamp that is then pressed into the blank dial. Once the precise pattern has formed, the blue colour is then applied through PVD. The dial is named Crystal Sky, and it’s clear why. It looks almost like aventurine, until you realise that it has the texture to it. The texture of the dial also allows the four subdials to pop with their blue snailed finish, and all the text is white.
I have never been a particular fan of John Mayers’ music, but there is no denying that he is one of the most prominent collectors out there. With his frequent appearances on Hodinkee, he introduced millions to some pretty interesting watches. However. It still feels weird having a seriously good looking watch from AP be a collaboration with Mayer, but that just might be me, as the brand has collaborated with numerous musicians before him. The one great thing is that his name does not appear on the watch anywhere, the only hint of exclusivity you get is on the back with the inscription that reads Limited Edition of 200 pieces.
The new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak John Mayer Perpetual Calendar is likely already completely spoken for, despite its price of CHF 150,000. See more on the AP website.
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While they might not be as huge as Hodinkee or Fratello, you really should be familiar with Oracle Time, a U.K. based watch publication. While they do have a decent website, they are primarily a printed magazine, and a wonderful one at that. Now, Oracle Time is celebrating it’s 10th anniversary and 100th issue, and to mark this occasion, they have collaborated with British watch brand Christopher Ward to release 100 pieces of the new Christopher Ward C65 Dune Shoreline.
Seeing as how this is a C65 Dune, there are some things that are not surprising. It comes in the familiar Explorer-style stainless steel case that measures 38mm wide, 11.9mm thick and due to its short lugs has a great lug-to-lug of 43.7mm. Water resistance is rated at 150 meters, there are sapphire crystals on top and bottom and the case gets a brushed finish and a smooth polished bezel on top.
What’s new is the lovely dial which takes inspiration from the dune landscape of Cerro Blanco in Peru. One of Oracle Time‘s founders visited the famous spot, and when he returned to the UK, he found similarities with the rugged, dramatic UK shoreline. The matte grey base of the dial gets a beautiful wavy ripple texture that’s achieved by stamping the brass dial. To keep the waves uninterrupted, Oracle Time had Christopher Ward remove the date window. I approve of this move! To keep the watch looking as grey as the sea and skies of the UK, the watch gets applied markers filled with turquoise Super-LumiNova BL Grade X1 for a fantastic contrast.
Inside is the familiar and easily servicable Sellita SW200-1, here in it’s COSC-certified version. It beats at 28,800vph and has a 38 hour power reserve. Thanks to the certification, the watch is accurate within +6/-4 seconds per day. The watch can be had with one of three strap options. First, and continuing the grey theme, is a gray Vacona leather strap with turquoise stitching. Next is Christopher Ward’s stainless steel Bader bracelet which is a three-link Oyster-style bracelet with a toolless micro-adjustment system. Last, there’s a blue fabric #tide strap made from ocean materials.
Only 100 pieces of the Christopher Ward × Oracle Time C65 Dune Shoreline will be made, with Oracle Time subscribers and members getting priority access. Orders open on April 2nd at 12:00 CET and general sale at 15:00 CET. Price is set at £1,260 with the Bader bracelet and the Vacona leather strap, £1,175 with just the Bader bracelet, £1,020 with just the gray Vacona leather strap and £995 with the blue #tide strap. See more on the Oracle Time website.
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I complained about Orient Star plenty. About their poor communication skills, bizzare release schedules and overall lack of cohesive strategy in their models. However, they have been on a roll the last few weeks. Not only are they getting better about updating their website, they released a really pretty duo of M34 F8 Dates that could compete with Grand Seiko. Well, we had a good time with that, as it seems Orient Star is back to its old ways. They just released a limited edition M45 F7 Mechanical Moon Phase and let’s just say it’s an acquired taste.
The watch comes in the M45 case that’s made out of stainless steel and measures 41mm wide, 13.8mm thick, with a lug to lug of 49mm. Water resistance is not great at 50 meters.
The dial is made of mother-of-pearl, but with a deep brown gradient. While I really love brown dials and watches, I can’t really say brown looks very good with the iridescent effect of mother-of pearl. The moon phase display sits at 6 o’clock, opposite the controversial power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock. The handset is diamond-shaped and on the edges of the dial you get very dramatic Roman numerals. Maybe a bit overly dramatic.
Inside is the F7M62 caliber movement which has a 50 hour power reserve and, according to Orient Star, has an accuracy of +15 seconds to -5 seconds per day. The watch comes on a brown Cordovan strap with a folding clasp.
The new M45 F7 Mechanical Moon Phase is limited to just 180 pieces and priced at £1,870 in the UK, which would translate to about $2,373. See more on the Orient Star website.
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Regular readers of Fratello have surely noticed that one of their most consistent article series has been written by Thomas van Straaten, as he was starting his own watch brand - Venustas Per Constantiam, or VPC for short. Van Straaten had a simple idea - make his own perfect GADA watch, and it was incredibly entertaining to read his path from watch writer to watch maker. Now, VPC has released its first model, the Type 37HW.
Being an entirely new brand, there’s no other models to compare it to, so let’s start from the case. It’s made out of stainless steel, with a 1,800 Vickers scratch-resistant coating, and measures 37.5mm, 9.8mm thick and with 45mm lug-to-lug. On top is a raised crystal sorrounded by a flat bezel. The lugs are twisted with polished flanks and you get an overall combination of polished and brushed surfaces. You also get the very interesting but rare hooded-lug design, meaning that the edge of the case enclose the straight ends of the bracelet from above. Rare, but wonderful.
The dial is equally as wonderful. It comes in three colors - a light Dove Grey, a moderate Delft Blue, and a dark Forest Green, all of which have a great looking grainy and matte texture. There’s a small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock and all the type on the watch has been custom-designed and printed. The hour markers are applied and baton shaped, filled with Super-LumiNova, while the hands are dauphine shaped.
Inside is the Sellita SW216-1 movement, part of the SW200 series, but with a small seconds indicator. It beats at 28,800vph, has a 45 hour power reserve and COSC certification. While VPC doesn’t specify what the exact accuracy of their watches is, COSC-certified watches have an average accuracy of -4/+6 seconds per day. The watch comes on a steel bracelet that tapers from 20mm to 16mm, comes with a quick release and has tool-less micro-adjust.
The new Type 37HW will not be limited, but VPC does say that the initial production batch will be 100 units per color, meaning 300 all together. They are doing some sort of rudimentary crowdfunding/presale, while avoiding the familiar platforms, meaning if they do not reach (an unstated) minimum number of orders, your money will be refunded by March 29th, 2024. Pricing is set at €2,479 without VAT and watches are expected to ship within 7–10 months. See more on the VPC website and check out the journey of creating a watch brand on Fratello, it’s a fun read.
🫳On hand
Our selection of the best reviews we stumble upon
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⚙️Real Time Reviews
A new segment in which we feature reviews from real users reviewing their personal watches
The practicality of the GMT function resonates with me, leading to an ongoing quest for an affordable yet commendable GMT watch. I remember reading a review on "Beyond The Dial" of this intriguing watch from Yema, obviously well-known in France but not particularly to me. I have been seduced by the opportunity to match my needs for a GMT and my love for France... Esteemed among watch enthusiasts for their legacy, Yema has further expanded their repertoire with this GMT, obviously complementing their iconic Superman aesthetic with functional diversity and a hint of color on the bezels.
I chose the 41mm stainless steel, providing a remarkable 500-meter water resistance, enhanced by a redesigned crown and fortified case back. Two options were on the table regarding the bezel, and I decided to go for the 'Batman' style blue-and-grey bezel that highlights the red seconds hand and 500 meters label.
⏲️Wait a minute
A bunch of links that might or might not have something to do with watches. One thing’s for sure - they’re interesting
“This is the story of the Theranos of marshmallows” is an undeniable line. Irresistible, even. So what if the parallels are tenuous? Adam Rogers’ tick-tock about the rise and fall of Smashmallow might lack the manipulation and villainy of Silicon Valley’s Potemkin startup, but the lesson at its core is the same: scale at your own risk.
One of the worst maritime disasters in European history took place a decade ago. It remains very much in the public eye. On a stormy night on the Baltic Sea, more than 850 people lost their lives when a luxurious ferry sank below the waves. From a mass of material, including official and unofficial reports and survivor testimony, The Atlantic’s correspondent has distilled an account of the Estonia’s last moments—part of his continuing coverage for the magazine of anarchy on the high seas.
McSweeny’s is one of my favorite online journals. Especially when they publish one of their absurdist funny pieces. Like this one, in which they recreate simple recipe instructions. Trust me, read it.
👀Watch this
One video you have to watch today
Ok, this is the second video about Formula 1 and by Rocketpowered Mohawk in a week. You know I don’t do this often. But come on, how can you not listen to RPM break down the Christian Horner sext scandal? Was it a finger? Or something else?
💵Pre-loved precision
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-Vuk